Pacific Waves to Caribbean Dreams: My Second Trip to Costa Rica
Our second trip to Costa Rica felt like coming home to a place we already loved, but with the promise of seeing it through new eyes. Just like our first adventure, we began in San José, picking up a 4×4 this time and hitting the road toward Quepos, ready to trace the curve of the Pacific coast once again. Returning to Villa Alturas brought back all the memories of the incredible ocean views and sunsets that felt endless. This time, we added something new — whale watching, an experience that left us completely in awe. From there, we crossed the country to explore the Caribbean side, beginning in the lush canals of Tortuguero before making our way down to the laid-back rhythm of Puerto Viejo. Two coasts, one country — and a journey that reminded us just how much Costa Rica has to offer.
Back on the Pacific: Our Return to Quepos and Villa Alturas
There’s a beautiful apartment we rent for a few days owned by a lovely french couple Fred and Carl called La Maison Blanche . They’re located in the El Cerro area of Quepos and their property is so clean , comfortable with the most stunning views. I can cook , do our shopping , laundry and it’s 45 minutes away from Dominical which is this tiny surf side town that has an amazing array of cafes and organic shops. We did stay in a beautiful resort Makanda by the Sea for two nights in Manuel Antonio to change things up a bit. The staff was super kind , the food was wonderful and it was just nice to lounge in the pools and bar at night. Until the monkeys came! They were a bit aggressive and we could hear them screeching and running on the roof of our room all night . Oh and a scorpion found its way into my bathroom but other than that it was a fantastic stay!
Our next stop was Villas Alturas We were staying seven days on the pacific side then driving across the country and up to Tortuguero to stay the weekend hoping see the turtles nesting. We visited Villas Alturas on our first trip and went to tour the sanctuary , but it was the Tamarindo margaritas and fish tacos that really lured us back . YES they were THAT good and we booked a villa with the most breathtaking view so we could eat and drink there for the next two nights while we went whale watching.
Driving Across Costa Rica to Tortuguero
It was time to start our journey to towards Tortuguero This was a long tiring bumpy drive and you need a 4×4 to get around Costa Rica. Our last trip to the Oso peninsula had us crossing rivers (remember Luna Lodge!!!) so we were much better equipped this time. Leaving the Pacific coast behind, we began the scenic drive toward Costa Rica’s Caribbean side, trading dry beaches and rolling hills for lush jungles and winding rivers. The journey itself was part of the adventure — passing through tiny towns, mountains, and banana plantations that stretched endlessly. If you’re looking to make the trip here is where you can find the timetables and information on how to plan your trip. As we approached Tortuguero, the roads gave way to canals, and we boarded a small boat that carried us through mangroves deep into the rainforest. It felt like stepping into another world — quieter, greener, and teeming with wildlife at every turn. On our 45 minute boat ride we spotted caimans along the banks , monkeys and colorful birds. Tortuguero’s remote beauty instantly captures you offering a glimpse of Costa Rica’s wild heart. Located in the Northeast, Tortuguero is small. There’s literally one path that guides you and winds around the few shops and cafe’s . There’s no driving just walking or bicycles allowed. For accommodation we stayed right next to the beach at Pura Natura since our goal was to see the turtles which we were unable to do ..
This sadly was what I called the “dip in the trip ” for me….. I feel like on vacations there’s that one time or moment where something just feels off. I wasn’t enjoying Tortuguero. The saving grace was this beautiful spot we found about five minutes from our hotel called Taylor’s Place. It was this lush , candlelit , space we stumbled upon that instantly made us light up and our entire trip changed. The host and chef Rey Taylor greeted us with the warmest smile and enthusiasm . He made us Pina Colada’s then told us he’d cook us something amazing . Yea he did! Alberto had steak with coffee sauce (he says it was tamarind but I swear Rey said cafe LOL) and I had prawns . I’m telling you it was one of the best dinner’s I’ve ever had and we went back again the next night for more . He was super sunburned from fishing all day and prepared us the most amazing fish . Finding Taylor’s was really what we needed .
Exploring Puerto Viejo: Cozy Stays and Caribbean Cuisine
It took about four hours of driving before we arrived to Limon which is the main port city on the Caribbean side. If you need to get gas , stretch or essentials it’s a solid place to stop. We stayed in Puerto Viejo , and Cahuita for this last ten day part of our trip. The sea is so beautiful here! The most beautiful shades of blue – green , and warm in August. We stayed at a few different places my favorite being La Paz del Caribe Wade and Laurie are the kindest people. We enjoyed their company, conversations , and delicious breakfast they prepared fresh every morning. The cutest little critters called agoutis would skittle over when I left some of my Go Nuts “sloth trail mix” on the deck. I just wanted to see these sweet critters up close and they got a snack everytime . Win – win!
We wanted to take a day trip into Cahuita National Park so Wade and Laurie introduced us to a fantastic guide, Joel who gave us a personal guided tour. THIS is when one of the most magical moments of my life happened ! We made our way into the park and a beautiful sweet sloth was sleeping in a tree. I stayed about an hour under her just mesmerized and it was magical. This was my purpose and why I came to Costa Rica. To be with my spirit animal. I love sloths , they have always fascinated me and this moment of just being silent , still and in awe of this in the wild made me feel calm and contented. I will never ever forget that moment.
We then trekked with Joel to an Indigenous village to forage for raw cacao , herbs and plants where I learned some rituals and techniques for health and healing, which you all may now know has played a part in my studies merging science and holistic medicine. We stayed another 3 nights at Geckoes Lodge so beautiful and rustic. I loved having a full outdoor kitchen in our cabin and grocery shopping so I could cook us dinner. We really enjoyed our time in Puerto Viejo — days spent swimming in crystal-clear waters, exploring hidden beaches, and soaking up the laid-back Caribbean rhythm. The lush greenery and vibrant tropical beauty were such a striking contrast to Costa Rica’s drier, golden Pacific coast — a reminder of just how diverse and captivating this country truly is. Puerto Viejo left us feeling refreshed, inspired, and already dreaming of when we’ll return.
Eats and Sweets in Puerto Viejo
I loved trying all of the fresh seafood and curries . There’s such a variety of diverse food to try in Puerto Viejo. My favorite place for breakfast was Bread and Chocolate They had thee most amazing breakfast , soft scrambled eggs , pastries , and coffee. We always took a cake to go so we’d have one for dessert or a beach lunch . We had a delicious lunch at El Refugio Grill and one of our favorite spots was La Nena We loved the fresh caught seafood , curry , literally everything is incredible here . This is a favorite local spot and I can see why! Some of the most delicious chocolate is produced in Costa Rica ! You can visit the Cacao farms and see up close how labor intensive the chocolate making process is . We toured Talamanca Chocolate
Wrapping Up Our Second Costa Rican Adventure
Heading back to San Jose we made one stop halfway in Guapiles and stayed at Casa Rio Blanco . It was the perfect stop before our flight home from San Jose airport back to Italy . The owner Harvey is so gracious , a great cook , and his place is so comfortable with the river as you sleep and relax . San Jose isn’t a place we explored so let me know if you did and have any suggestions .
Experiencing both coasts of Costa Rica was like seeing two sides of the same paradise — each with its own rhythm, colors, and charm. The Pacific coast greeted us with golden sunsets, whale watching, and the tranquil luxury of Villa Alturas, while the Caribbean side wrapped us in vibrant energy, lush jungles, and the easygoing pace of Puerto Viejo. From the mountains to the sea, Costa Rica’s beauty feels endless — raw, welcoming, and deeply alive. We left with sun-kissed skin, full hearts, and a deeper appreciation for how diverse this small country truly is. It’s a destination that keeps calling us back, and I know this won’t be our last adventure here. XO Tera
